danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)
I'm not sure anyone I follow, or even anyone I know personally, understands what the fuck really happened here.

 

- You are in a cult. You are not allowed to read books not approved by the cult.
- You read the books anyways. Someone finds out about it. They always fucking find out. They have spies who want to suck up to the cult everywhere.
- This is normal because the cult promises to go easier on anyone who adheres more fervently to the cult. Some people will even get rewarded by the cult. They get extra treats and *sometimes,* they even get really cool toys that normally aren't allowed in the cult.
- You are beaten and threatened. You have probably already been starved and beaten for other infractions.
- You've finally managed to read 1984 and have decided that this is how it works. When you finally repent, when you finally break under torment and apologise, and you say you'll be compliant, they will likely kill you or worse. Once a contaminant, always a contaminant.
- You do not stop reading. They beat you again and again.
- Those Other Kids figure out that you're reading. Some think you're pretty cool, going against the grownups. A few might actually want to swing with you on the playground. Not everyone likes you. Most don't because they don't wanna get in trouble, or they think you're doing something bad. ALL the grown-ups say you're Bad, so you are.
- The grown-ups now parade you in front of the class and demand to know about your reading. You claim that reading is good, actually. They shout you down and humiliate you.
- It isn't about making you feel bad. It's about public humiliation. And more importantly: any other kids who KNOW you're right will see that you have no power. Your efforts to read and to get others to read are pointless. They bring only suffering. You are right, and you are brave, and all of that means nothing.
- Now the kids who wanted to play with you aren't so sure. They don't dislike you or anything. They're just going to get in a lot of trouble for even being seen with you. Some can handle the questioning and the parents warning them about bad influences, but some of them aren't very well-off themselves, and they can't handle any more.
- The kids who DO dislike you though... they've now seen that the grown-ups hurt you, and it's okay. It's okay to really make you cry. It's okay to hit you and take your toys and break stuff you like. The grown-ups did it, and THEY'RE in charge of EVERYTHING.
- Those kids want to be loved. All kids do. They want to feel proud of themselves for Doing the Right Thing. And the grown-ups will be proud of them, too.
- They turn on you publicly, increasingly violently.
- The kids who wanted to play with you? Maybe one stands up to defend you. Maybe. And that kid gets hit pretty badly. Maybe they aren't even allowed to have dinner for a whole week.
- Maybe some are "with you in spirit," whatever the fuck THAT means. Useless. Thoughts and prayers!
- But ultimately, the point is not to hurt you. The point is to get others to hurt you. To show you, through others, that you are nothing and your fight for literacy means nothing.

 

This is a post about Russia.
danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)

There are very few gluten-free cake mixes that aren't chocolate or "yellow." Almost everything I've seen between Sprouts, Walmart, Target, Publix, and a few online, are all divided between yellow, chocolate, or "white" cakes that are actually NOT white cakes. Or they are, quite simply, fucking awful. These companies KNOW that people with Celiac disease are common (about 1 in 100-115) and cannot pick an alternative. There is no such thing as a "gluten friendly" diet. That means they can make the absolute worst product possible and a whole customer base will have little choice but to buy it.

Simple Mills white cake is a caramel colour that tastes more like a spice cake than a white cake.

Winn-Dixie just released one- a few weeks after altering Aldi's yellow cake mix. I haven't tried it yet. I don't eat cake very often.

Miss Jones' has various cake mixes, but oh my god. Look, NO cake mix is "healthy," okay. Miss Jones' mixes START with sugar as the first or second ingredient. They are disgustingly sweet.

Kinnickkinnick made one I liked quite well, as well as a line of frozen donuts, but they have been discontinued over a year ago. They will not start reopening until the end of 2025. Cool.

Pillsbury makes a confetti white cake that is absolutely fucking terrible. It is DRY, like made from stale puffed rice, if a rice cake had attempted to morph into a cake. Fresh out of the oven, even with the oil, it tastes several days' stale.

I've seen two or three more appear in the past few months. It's heartening! But they aren't very widespread here. I can get them online from various brands' websites but at a much higher cost than any in person. This same problem happens with a lot of GF websites: I can get item from (local store) but it's easily $3-4 MORE per item directly from the brand's website AND I usually have to buy $50-80 worth to get free shipping. A "regular" box cake mix might be $2.50, and they're often buy one-get one free. So $1.75-ish each. A gluten free one easily costs $6-8 each in the stores. And the direct brands' website wants up to $12 each?

Thanks but not worth it in the slightest. GF food is ALREADY 2-5x the cost of what a "normal" version is. I am not paying MORE when SSD (while it exists) pays a maximum of ~$965/mo, which is supposed to cover ALL of my expenses: food, utilities, rent, medical costs (which yes, I pay for. Hundreds of dollars a month just on prescriptions, not in mandatory doctor's copays.) No, I am not in fact going to pay "just" $2-3 more per item. If anything, shipping directly from the brand's website should be cheaper. Don't advertise it as a sale and a great deal when I know I can get that exact item more cheaply at regular price... at Whole Foods.

Aldi's gluten-free yellow cake mixAldi's finally opened near-ish to us and their gluten-free pancake mix is actually pretty good. It's probably good as stated on the box. I say that because I change the mix a lot.

Most GF food is bereft of nutrients and fiber, which is one reason people with Celiac disease have a skyrocketing incidence of diabetes. By the time someone gets a Celiac diagnosis, it's usually because the ability to digest foods like most vegetables has already broken down. No, most of us cannot, in fact, just start eating whole foods. That's kind of the problem here. Also, diagnosis tends to ride on the tails of much worse diagnoses, many of which prohibit the ability to cook meals from scratch. Thus, the need to be able to just put something in an oven, a microwave, or my go-to's, macaroni + cheese or cereal. I hate milk but it has the nutrients I often lack.

Adding things to "basic" mixes like a pancake mix can help with customization. I know that if I'm having a shit day, I can use minimal brain power and make something as directed on the box. If I have any higher capabilities that day, I can add half a banana or half a scoop of Isopure (a flavourless protein powder intended for baking) or some ground almonds or flaxseed for fiber + nutrients, whatever. Sometimes it comes out well, sometimes those experiments don't. I should be writing them down more often. Would help me a lot. If I, say, remembered to do that AT THE TIME I was making food... but usually I'm so tired, the only thing I'm thinking of is ... food.

With this in mind, Aldi's cake mix is probably decent, too. But I didn't want yellow cake.

What does a dumb bitch with autoimmune problems have to do to get a single white cupcake that doesn't cost $8 from some little trendy local bakery that isn't even OPEN most of the time? Or that doesn't have SO MUCH SUGAR that my teeth actually hurt, and it leaves this weird nasty aftertaste? I was specifically craving white cake with strawberries and buttercream. Preferably, I wanted to magically be able to safely eat an entire Publix chantilly cake with an extra two pounds of fruit. But.

Do not make it as written on the box. Why would anyone do that. Close-up of the crumb structure of GF white cake
 
You need:
1 box mix - Aldi yellow cake mix
4 egg whites. Reserve yolks for cats or another recipe, like custard. Right now bird flu is an issue so do not give them to cats RAW.
1 tsp oil (I used avocado but any neutral oil is fine. Olive is a delicious choice if using a good quality. You'll know by the smell.)
1tbsp gluten free sour cream. Lactaid brand is fine. Idk why sour cream would HAVE gluten but who tf knows dude, it's used as a thickener, so maybe some cheap brands do.
1 stick butter, softened ~20mins. You want to press your thumb into it gently, and it holds shape. Too soft won't work. Don't substitute margarine or olive oil or anything. Butter has specific fat structures so vegan whatever might not work the same.
1/2tsp vanilla extract (clear is better but I don't have any)
1/2tsp almond extract
3/4c milk. Lactaid is fine but you don't want skim or fat-free or the cake will be dry and crumbly. That's why you want the oil, too. Nut or oat milks might not work well but experiment.
 
Separate the eggs while they are cold. Let all ingredients sit out for that 20mins or so. You need eggs, milk, etc. for a gluten-free recipe to be at room temperature, but preferably not 80f or over.
 
Preheat the oven to 350f.

Since you're using a mix, put everything in one large mixing bowl + beat until smooth. Beaters are best but a strong whisk or stirring spatula is fine too. Let it sit for 5mins or so while the oven is preheating.

Grease your pans or cupcake tins + follow directions on the box. Take them out, wait a few minutes, then turn them out to cool.

Look at that. LOOK at that crumb. It looks like an actual freaking regular cupcake. It's bouncy, like it's supposed to be.

There IS a catch:
 you DO need to eat them within 48 hours and store them in something that doesn't allow moisture to escape, like tupperware or something. I haven't tried freezing them. I DID put most of the batter in the fridge and make the rest of it within a few days. GF foods go stale really really really fast, which only significantly increases the monetary losses of making/eating GF food.

Alternatives:
Use high quality olive oil, that smells like olives, and use almond and lemon extracts with tiny shavings of lemon (lemon zest.) Do an almond citrus cake. Put some almond slivers down into the pan before pouring on the batter. Or think about chantilly layers, make a simple syrup with that almond extract and dust some orange zest in between layers or mixed into the batter.

Pile on some fruit. It's healthy! :P Right? Slice up some fresh bananas, eat cake with a cup of berries, idk. Don't abstain from the delicious cake. Just add something to it.

danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)
If you've never heard of Swap-bot.com , you aren't alone. It's a Ye Olde Anciente Website done in Markup forever ago... and it shows. It's long been abandoned by the creators although it's paid for every month via all the ads that pop up. Usually on my phone, since adblockers are necessary for internet security these days. I really wish SB had like, a CashApp or something I could just toss $5 to now and then. But it is what it is.

Swap-Bot allows people to send each other postcards, penpal letters, happy mail, any kind of art or book swaps, etc. I mostly do stickers, washi tape, and small paper or collage supply swaps. I used to do ATCs, sketches, scavenger hunts, and all sorts of things. It's a great way to use up the craft supplies you have *for a purpose* and meet people who share some of your same hobbies. It's also a great excuse to try new things in small, manageable amounts. Break out those pens + pencils and make a sketch the size of a business card! Paint some cardstock you hate. Decorate it. Cut it to under a certain size. Now it's a postcard! Try out those new stamps and stencils. Be silly. Have no "point," make mistakes, get messy!

A close-up of painted postcardsI have a Livejournal where I host information about swaps and etiquette, post about my own upcoming swaps, announce winners, etc. I used to do Blogspot but Spectrum, one of the largest ISPs here in the South, decided to start blocking google-owned Blogspot as a 'security risk' and people would have to configure their security settings to be allowed access. Ridiculous but okay. So I switched to Livejournal. It's very easy.

Slowly, I would like to start populating a Dreamwidth group as well ( [community profile] swapbot_notes  ) which could also have it's own circle. Anyone who has a name on Swap-bot already is welcome to join. Once I have enough members, probably 20+, I can start doing the Fun Things in the group such as host bonus swaps, surprise gift swaps, things like that.

In the meantime, if you'd like to join Swap-bot.com, be sure to read the rules, check the Help! section, learn to spot bots, and meet some new people.

I also run a group to help new people get into starter swaps. All a group member has to do is read the rules listed in each individual swap before joining. I curate the group once every few months to ensure that members still adhere to group requirements (like no bad ratings recently, "double profiles" where people sign up twice to get more stuff, things like that.)

Last year, I often ran a full rack of 20 swaps at a time. This is 20 swaps across 3-4 groups plus my public swaps, so I pretty much had things scheduled every few days. I haven't been able to do that this year but I hope to get back to it.

danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)
This weekend-ish, I completed a few small projects. I have so many "little things" to do and untreated ADHD means... everything is partially done. Almost never fully completed. Or lots of things are made with no particular use in mind, just to keep my hands busy.

For example, I have a stack of 6.5 x 6.5" muslin squares that I cut some years ago, which are easy to take anywhere and I can stitch down fabric scraps to them at any time. If I want to, say, practice an American embroidery stitch or something, I can (Victorian crazy quilt style.) I have no particular plans for these. They can be made into... whatever? later. Pieces for a small blanket, scraps for an interesting bag, textile art, whatever.

Patchwork with random fabric scraps adhered to muslinI would source bags of scrap and remnant fabric from local sewists and crafts people who usually sold on Etsy, so these are all different shapes, sizes, colours, etc. I prefer secondhand materials, including thread. Most of my needles are also from thrift stores or other people. I use as many reclaimed or secondhand items as possible.

The stigma on using thrifted or secondhand items is still quite strong, with people imagining that these items have "something wrong:" smoke smells, stains, dog urine, mildew, I don't know. Only recently, the past few years, has this eco-friendly thrifted fad become something widespread. Many of us Old People from the 90s and early 2000s can tell you that thrifting was second-class, if you weren't one of those people considered to be these granola crunchy hippies who smelled like they'd been at a festival for a week. If you were, that was just expected. Not always liked outside your subculture, but expected.

We had a local store (accessible by bus!) that sold exclusively secondhand art supplies of all kinds but it rapidly closed. I miss them quite a bit. That might have been around 2012? Another one has opened about an hour away and has been successful despite some MASSIVE setbacks, like devastation and flooding from Milton/Helene. They are now opening another location only around 45 minutes away- but the route is much, much easier. This is a place where ... I have to say... for "secondhand" supplies... a LOT of them are NEW. Piles of skeins of yarn that people bought and never used, piles of remnant fabrics in cubes far outmassing JoAnn Fabrics, a shoebox of just buttons with little packets you can fill for a flat rate... it's quite nice.

Last night, I had so many important things I absolutely need to do, including some with looming deadlines. Did I do ANY of those things? No.

Instead, I got annoyed by this half-size pillow I have which was sold without a pillow case, and there are no pillow cases available for that half-travel size. If I put a "standard" (US) size case on it, it's fine, if I fold it in half first. For some reason that bothered me. I have metres of fabric and a drawer of different threads. Surely I have things that will go together.

Annnnnd... this is where the ADHD usually shuts me down.

I can SEE the items. I know the steps. I have the skills. The perceived effort in completing those steps is suddenly So Exhausting and Boring, it is almost a physically painful sensation. Like a creeping migraine paired with the aching of shoulders and neck from doing too much lifting. It isn't even HARD to make a pillowcase. It's a rectangle.

oh but the rectangle has to be perfect, and the cotton fabric isn't "squared," An iron and cotton pillowcase in mint greenand even if I did it wouldn't matter because the pieces I have are literally like 20 years old now and the fibers... ::sighs:: jfc just do it. Also my cutting mat is... 14", I think? So I have to be pretty careful about measuring longer sections and whatnot. But I got the basic rectangle done, hand-sewn. It went fairly quickly using a combination of running and back stitches. Then I folded one edge and blanket stitched the raw sections to keep it from unravelling. I didn't fell the edge. I was going to stop there and pick it up today, since it was about 10pm and my computer was dying.

::sighs:: And yet. I knew that if I stopped when I was ALMOST done, my brain would keep telling me I could finish it "later" and it was SO easy and I only had to do a little bit on that, but I have to do a lot on this other thing, so get the other thing done and then I'll get back to finishing THIS...

or just finish it. ugh. i had to 'transition' from comfortable sitting to going to another room, setting up the iron, waiting for it to heat, folding and measuring the edge that got turned, iron it, finish it, iron it again... ADHD doesn't like 'activity transitions' and will resist them. This is another point of being a neurological condition. If it were possible to just Think Your Way Out of It, it wouldn't BE a problem. Would it.

Once that was finished, I cleared supplies and a few things here or there that had been left out. I didn't actually put things away fully.

Today, after poor sleep and lots of waking up periods, I eventually got around to sewing again. I have some patchwork pieces going. It just feels boring and like I'm wasting time because there's no finish point and I'd really like one of those today. Some kind of accomplishment.

Tried to wind more silk embroidery thread (from Zelkova) but it was such a Task, my brain wouldn't let me continue. I cut the thread I had on the spool already, bound what was left of the skein, and put it away.

The front of a small handmade needlebookWent through the drawer of half-finished projects. Found a small scrap of patchwork done ... probably some months ago. Figured a needlebook would be easy to make. All straight lines, finished in an hour at most, and I have all the stuff I need for it already. ~ 7 x 4", 6.5 x 3.5" when done and turned for the needlebook cover. Cut scraps of felt to 3 x 3.25" max.

Paired it with another piece of thicker cotton, which I normally overthink. Colours, patterns, all that stuff. It has to be "perfect," whatever that is. Feel coordinated "best" out of the available things I have- which are hundreds of pieces that might work. Normally paralyzing. I was able to just Pick One today.

Found a button, which I normally also overthink and give up on, and something to tie it shut with. A piece of cotton yarn is used for the tie. The button is a shiny grey plastic, acquired from Bottom of the Bin in Seminole, FL.

I have a large ziploc bag of felt scrap pieces, which is perfect for a patchwork scrap this small. They're all slightly different sizes but the colours coordinate with the patchwork. Because they are all different pieces, they had to be bound together first, then attached to a "spine" sewn in using 6-strand embroidery floss. There were a few inches left over so I wound those into the binding, too.

I haven't filled the book with anything. I'm not planning on keeping it. That's the harder part of 'being creative': I need to make the money for basic stuff like medicine, but also no one else has any, and also I don't have a "point" in making these things. They go nowhere and everywhere I know of is saturated with mass-made $1 needlebooks anyways. Nothing seems important or useful. Not compared to the efficiency and features that anything factory-made can offer. I try not to let myself think when making things or I'll end up stopping. What does anyone else do?

Now that I've accomplished Something, maybe my brain will let me do other boring things, like sorting this endless pile of paper around me. Or organizing the tiny things in the crafting closet. It'll be difficult. Eris the Destroyer is on my lap, purring up a storm. She gets aggressive when disturbed. Hoomans were made to serve cats.

danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)
Close-up of floral embroidery on antique kimonoA very long time ago, just over a decade, I was able to get bundles of Nishijin embroidery silk. It has been a Very Long Time. Back then, Sou Japan was called Shinei (and had a third name, I think.) I sold almost everything for as long as I could. Things got pretty bad until ~2018, and I couldn't eat silk.

Nishijin is like a capital for silk embroidery and weaving. The best production comes out of Nishijin, and likely still does. Thing is, embroidery isn't exactly something most people ever did, and fewer still do it well today. Embroidery is an extraordinary luxury: it is difficult and time-consuming to do, easily damaged, and basically cannot be cleaned. Many Japanese dyes are not colourfast and some fabrics are very delicate. There are specialist cleaners. None of them are in America (as far as I know.)

This kimono is an antique, as late as pre-war 1930s. The kimono is completely urushi fabric with gleaming threads woven in a base pattern of black-on-black and brown-on-black kikyo and other floral motifs. Over that is an embroidered pattern of streams, with chrysanthemums and leaves in white, yellow, green, and orange.

Being an antique, it does need repairs. I am always lucky when a kimono this old is in this condition. I also acknowledge that many items I purchase, new or old, will most always need repairs because of the nature of purchasing secondhand kimono. See my rant on this, but tl;dr: in Japan, it is often expected that secondhand kimono are sold for fabrics or are expected to be 'damaged goods.' If it's wearable, great! If not, well... that depends on most wearers, I suppose. I've definitely worn very damaged pieces as yokai or obake (like demons or spirits) costumes. The more expensive an item is, the higher the expectations of quality.

This one was a bit more expensive than what I can usually afford. It is *fantastic.* Overall, it is in amazing condition. I think there is an internal split in threads, which can be fixed. The embroidery in this photo is not actually meant to 'fade' as I thought, like a hazy aspect to the motif. Like a heat mirage, with the black fabric being a colour of summer and rivers as coolness. The other colours are ones of changing momiji, which I typically associate with late July and early August, but the kimono is awase (lined) and should be worn in Autumn. This, then, is likely for late September, before the leaves fully change colour. Chrysanthemums are the flower of September as modern Choyo no Sekku, Chrysanthemum Festival, is on 9/9. Typically I think hitoe (unlined) kimono would be worn until nearly October, but the motif and colours fit September. Plus, Choyo no Sekku was once on the "old calendar," which IS in October. So- likely October, then? Just no longer now that Japan is using the Gregorian solar calendar.


A full image of the antique kimono with urushi thread + embroidered chrysanthemums In any event, the embroidery is actually worn away. Either from storage or just time. Kimono with embroidery like this typically has paper in between layers to prevent them from rubbing against each other, causing damage. Silk is also a protein fiber so it breaks down differently than cotton or linen. It's very soft and fluffy when used as embroidery thread so it's fragile and easy to damage.

I did not own this kimono when I owned all those bundles of embroidery silk or I would have kept back some similar colours of thread. I've never actually embroidered before. Chinese/Japanese-style embroidery is nothing like the relatively simplistic embroidery popularised in America. It'll be a new skill to learn. In any event, I would need to GET the thread to fix any of this. THEN I would need to take apart the kimono enough to repair the outer fabric and sew it back accurately and with skill. And do all of this with chronic fatigue from ehlers-danlos syndrome while trying to manage "daily life stuff," which I'm no longer doing well at all. Sure! The irony: I *finally* have time to do these things and it's because I'm too disabled to work even 4 hours a day, on someone else's clock. Cool, cool. Awesome.

A friend has done finer Italian-style medieval and Tudor embroidery before and has a lot of equipment for goldwork and other things. I can borrow some of those items and take time to embroider things. I do still need to buy a kakehari (a "third hand) to help keep tension on fabric while resewing the seams. I need to figure out how to fix a broken section of lining seam without the whole thing as it is. ::sighs::

But where do I get those threads? They haven't appeared on Ebay shops I've looked at in quite some time, nor have they shown up on searches. I've found tiny little skeins, the kind of paper bobbin used for DMC floss, for ~$8 each. It doesn't have the same look at the 'old kind', either. Absolutely impossible. Etsy is a better bet for some of these finer things. The few shops that do have small bundles of silk thread (rightfully) charge a premium for them, considering the fiber, quality, rarity, and sheer amount of material for the money.

One shop I recognise is still open, though! I'd had items saved for YEARS from Zelkova. I mean, obviously, all of those had long ago sold out. I closed my Etsy shop in 2020. I think I'd opened it ~2009. She carries piles and piles of vintage silk embroidery threads and real kinran(!) for dirt-cheap. OMG. I don't know how she's doing it but sure, okay. I messaged her immediately to ask advice about items I needed to repair; particularly the kinran, gold couching threads on some of my kurotomesode, an antique haneri collar, some of my obi, etc. There are different widths of kinran and I can't see anything in person, so it's better to ask. Takumi-san responded within hours. Night here is day there, ~13 hours apart. I racked up some various items and needed to wait to have money to spend and then... Etsy did what Etsy does these days and randomly suspended her shop. For "identity verification." lol k, actual factories are selling Dove soap and knockoff Hello Kitty *everywhere,* but the lone Japanese woman with an embroidery shop is the real problem here. K. That's alright though. I'd rather go through her actual website anyways.

Etsy gets $0 from me if I can help it. If you don't understand why, look up Youtube videos of creators having their money stolen and shops shut down. Our dollars should go to the small businesses and artists we want to support, not to the ex-CEO of Ebay who chopped all staff + forces users to link to payment processors that steal financial info, an actual previous lawsuit against that company. oy. It used to be a great site.

.35mm Kinran from ZelkovaJapan.comZelkovaJapan.com has piles and piles of embroidery thread skeins, more than enough for full projects and more, for $8USD a colour, average of $20 for gold threads. I ... got more than I actually needed. Worth it. And the skein of kinran is much more than I needed. I could have easily done with a quarter of that amount.

The other embroidery thread is gorgeous. I'm almost afraid that my fingers are too callused and nails are so torn up, I might damage the thread while working with it. I do want to get proper bobbins before I start undoing any skeins, for sure! I also have enough fabric, I kind of want to make storage bags for individual colours to protect them against dust, cat fur, and any accidentally damage or tangling. Seriously, how am I going to be so fortunate again? I need to thank her for her help. And then figure out how to repair this kimono without having to take it apart (or how to do it with as little deconstruction as possible.)

If you intend to do your own Japanese embroidery, repairs, or any embroidery where silks are required, try ZelkovaJapan. I used Etsy to send messages but purchased through Takumi-san's standalone site. I hope you will be quite happy.
danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)

This is about cultural expectations when buying kimono online. It is also a gripe about people who think they're exempt from engaging with another culture when buying cultural items from another country.



Japanese kimono for dancing. Black with red clouds, gold obi, red accessories.
I found a new-ish seller on Ebay who sells "estate sale"-style lots of kimono. He works directly with those looking to sell them, just as it happens with auction houses in America. These lots are of groups of like-items, so there may be a mix of male and female garments, summer and awase (three season) items, etc. which may not be worn together when creating a traditional outfit. These items are often sold on a secondhand market for adding to a collection already, crafting, or for informal mixing with yofuku (American or 'European style' clothing.)

Americans in some of my kimono groups have had... Issues with these kind of kimono sales. Some of it is a divide in cultural expectations. Some of it is Americans being Especially American, and why we are sometimes so fucking hard to deal with outside of America.

in b4 "but I'm american and I don't act like this!" good for you!!! here's a cookie! #NotAllAmericans

American attitudes as a culture

It's because we want allll the things but do not want to PAY for them. This is not a new trend. It has been around for at least 50 years. It is literally the reason so many Americans were enthusiastic about starting factories or locating offices in China: we get more and pay less.

Especially problematic, the worst offenders feel like they deserve "better customer experience" (ie, getting their way) and do not consider others' needs at all. They blame the seller if the seller does not cater to them, because the seller is an asshole and shouldn't be doing business. They blame the seller if the seller does cater to them because the seller shouldn't be selling if they're going to lose money/time/whatever on the deal. In the end, these people view the problem as the Seller's Fault.

The Cultural Divide

Lots of kimono like these are often sold with little description and few measurements. The items themselves may not be worth a lot on the resale market in Japan. In Japan, many secondhand kimono are purchased for fabric for crafting, for making new things like bags or hats, or for brief outings.

An Ebay photo showing various kimono items
In Japan, many places give discounts if you wear a kimono for a week or so, especially during festivals and things like this. Most people do not wear kimono very often. Some never wear them at all. It has not been "common" to wear kimono, except for yukata, in probably 60 years. Yukata are the cotton kimono reserved for summer festivals and certain events, or for explicit use at onsen, hot springs. It is easy to tell the visual difference between the two when you see them. It is expected that, just like in America, you can get secondhand kimono at many pop-up temple sales (like community garage sales) or thrift stores for dirt-cheap but the quality may also not be great. Most in the past 50 years are synthetic or semi-synthetic. Survivor bias means that very small or unusual sizes will last forever but normal sizes get worn out fast, so something that fits you better may have more small damages. In person, there as here, there are no measurements attached to these garments. Bring your own measuring tape and flashlight.

Online, kimono shopping is very much expected to be a similar experience: most people are not buying something to fit them perfectly or to be in excellent condition at very low prices. Many people are not expecting to buy a wearable garment at all, or are buying something for a few hours, take some photos, be done.

Just like here, it is expected that you get what you pay for.

If you want a secondhand kimono made of good quality materials, or that is fairly new, or that fits well (or all three!) you will pay a lot more money. In Japan, that is easily hundreds of dollars USD, on the secondhand market. In some districts, like Kyoto area, you will pay a lot more.

but
Americans buy kimono almost entirely online. We have to. There are extremely few in-person opportunities in this country. This means kimono are a luxury item. Yes, even the cotton yukata from 20 years ago. That's one of those facts I need to smack people in the head with until they internalize it.

Online, the expectation is that every single detail of the item will be shown, up close, in photos which are taken with specific lighting, in extremely specific ways. We demand measurements of all aspects of the item. Sometimes this is necessary, such as buying a desk, or pet stairs, or a brand-new piece of clothing.

Moreover, we expect that the seller (whoever it is, in specific as in one person, or in general, like the business) is being paid something to do this. Probably hourly.

That is NOT how small businesses work, not even in America. Most people have no fucking clue. When I ran my own shop on Etsy, I easily worked 80+ hours a week and STILL needed to hire help. Did I get mommy and daddy money to help me start up or pay others? lol no. Did I get grants to do anything? lol no. People think those are magically easy to get, and they are absolutely NOT. Plus, no one is going to get a grant for a freaking pagan shop, Karen, go back to huffing DoTerra oils. My story is not uncommon. It is pretty well-known that if you are self-funding a startup, even "just" on ebay or etsy, this is your reality. In fact, it is well-known that you may LOSE money for up to the first two years before your name gets established enough to turn a $1 profit. That's why most people don't do it at all. We do not have the money to lose. It is safer and more profitable to work part-time at 7-11.

I can assure you, the guy selling kimono on ebay, who might have like 2-3 people helping list stuff, is not getting endless cash for the extra effort of making listings to American expectations. The owner might be spending what could/should be retirement money until a decent return is made.

americans are entitled as shit. a lot of us just don't THINK we are.

Again, what few Americans seem to appreciate, or even understand, is that it takes hours of labour to create the kind of sales experience they want. That labour is worth money and SHOULD cost money.

If someone posts general photos and little description, in a culture that expects little when buying secondhand garments from an auction site, it will cost less money to buy most items. Less effort = low price. That is very normal for Japanese expectations. This is a Japanese seller, in Japan, who is natively Japanese, selling traditional Japanese items. We could be so lucky that this person went through the extra effort to do their best on putting all details of their listings in English. (but nope! Americans demand perfect English before someone dares speak to us, too!)

If someone posts a dozen photos with great lighting and makes effort to identify flaws, describing them in text, editing photos, taking measurements, and telling about individual items, that means EACH ITEM can take 1-2 HOURS to post. That labour should be paid for. More detail = higher price.

If you want a kimono that you "know" is only about $20USD in Japan, but it's listed for $50 + SH, and $20 including shipping is the most you want to pay... move to Japan.

People get pissed off when I tell them that, but I cannot be nice about this anymore.

You are basically telling me that you do not respect other people. You do not respect their labour or the part of their lives they traded for making that listing. You do not understand nor do you care about the costs of running a business, what Ebay charges, what your equipment costs, etc. You are telling me that you want to buy an item which cannot be gotten easily or readily in America, and pay almost nothing for it.

You want something really cool for less than free.

If you cannot afford $50 + SH (or whatever it is) you should not buy that kimono. It is not food or shelter. It makes people very unhappy and angry when I tell them this. Don't bitch at me about it. Y'all need to be aware of your audience. For example, do not ever tell the very, very ill disabled person who lived in their car WHILE working TWO jobs, that not being able to afford a fucking kimono is some major personal affront. I do not care. Is the US economic system wrecked? Yes, it is. I would know, wouldn't I. AT THE SAME TIME, is it some other person's fault that a luxury item is not in your budget? Yeah, but probably not the one you're upset with. Now stop taking it out on people. Unless they own Amazon, Microsoft, Proctor + Gamble, or some other giant corporation that is underpaying their employees, chances are, they have nothing to do with you and your resources. Stop making small business owners feel guilty in an attempt to get a discount. WE need to live, too.

which reminds me, shipping is a BITCH compared to American expectations

Americans expect free shipping or dirt-low shipping on everything. Someone bitched this week that THIS kimono seller has $5 shipping. All these OTHER kimono sellers who charge $30 an item are RIDICULOUS.

no, that $5 shipping is drastically, artificially low. the listings of theirs that start at $1 often go much higher, and when they don't, look at the full shop. Most items are actually $40-200. That is because those $5 shipping items with a $1 starting bid are "loss leaders." Also, this is a shop well-known (to buyers) to have very inaccurate measurements, which may list an item as silk when it is a semi-decent synthetic, which may have an item covered in very pale age stains but which may not show it in photos. YES, *that is the trade-off with very weirdly cheap items.* So stop getting angry about it.

I get it, the anger comes from an American reading a description that is presumably there for a reason, and then the description didn't match the thing. Yeah, I know. For lots of items, I would also have a problem. Certain categories of items are an exception. Buying kimono at weirdly low prices is one of them. I'm with Judge Judy: "If it doesn't make sense, it's NOT. TRUE." Correct. Those prices do not make sense. Something isn't true. The shop is real. It has been established for years. Ah, in context, that description information is often very hit or miss. I've had some very good experiences with buying from that shop- but also, I have a wide margin of "error" expected.

$5 shipping is fucking weird. This is likely a textile mill taking advantage of some kind of tax breaks. I don't know enough about Japanese law to say. But I DO know that Japanese shipping is extremely high. It's a tiny little island country, smaller than California, literally on the other side of the world from me. Shipping will be $$$.

This week, I paid $30 in shipping for a mid-range postage option on a handful of embroidery thread. Yes, that is right: less than a quarter pound, or 1/8th kilo, cost me $30 USD.

The cheaper option was ~$20, which did not have any kind of real tracking in case of loss. There was a $15 option by sea mail, which can take several weeks, no tracking of any kind, and often is damaged in transit. This is the cost for ~.15kg.

A single modern kimono can easily weigh 2lbs, or 1kg. A single fukuro obi can be 2lbs; a little lighter for a less-formal nagoya style, or 1lb/.25kg for a hanhaba, often the cheapest costume-quality synthetic kind.

People who buy kimono from Japan need to know and respect that.

Americans expect free shipping. Outright. No matter HOW heavy or fragile an item. No matter who is comes from. No matter if it's a big business on Amazon or some guy selling old postcards from his garage.

(on a side note, I paid almost $17 to ship one kimono from Florida to another nearby state via Priority Mail, which has insurance and tracking. via Standard Mail it still would have been ~$12. And some of you complain that a heavier kimono... from literally the other side of the planet... from a tiny little island with not that many resources, actually... should get here to Florida for $5-10. what drugs are you on.)

This was a problem almost 5 years ago on Etsy- the great push for us small artisans to act like we have the giant shipping deals that Chinese factories do. Etsy de-prioritized shops that did NOT have free shipping enabled, while also allowing actual factories to spring up. A regular person, or a small business of all of 5 people, cannot offer free shipping in the vast majority of cases. Etsy suggested hiding a small shipping fee in the price of the item. First of all, no. Second of all, that's not fair for customers. If you buy one item and it costs me $4 to ship to Virginia but $6 to ship to Oregon, I have to HOPE that I sell enough to balance that out. AND if you buy more than one item with "free" shipping, that means you might have just paid $10 shipping for something that would only cost $5 to ship. No matter what, Etsy racks up money by charging me fees. Clearly I did not switch to "free" shipping. And I got shoved down the search for it.

In China, there are (or were? idk what Drumpf is doing this week) huge trade agreements. Shipping something here is free or so cheap on our exchange rate, it's easier for these factories to just include it in the cost. And so much of our stuff has free shipping now, it's an expectation.

Here's the thing: MOST COUNTRIES do NOT have "free" shipping agreements. MOST. OF. THEM. MOST COUNTRIES also do not have artificially cheap postage. They are small countries and do not have the sheer tax revenue or wealth that America does. We *could* spend less money on bombing children in other countries and maybe trade that for a post office that doesn't run almost as bad as the one my dad used in Bolivia? But... lol naaahhh

It's easier to get mad at local sellers on Craigslist in the US, and the 50-something year old woman in Japan, for the audacity to *charge for postage.* And yeah, I've gotten a lot of messages for my own shop, demanding that I give free shipping Or Else. Or else, they'll report me (a real problem on Etsy, where they can just close your whole shop,) or else they'll leave bad reviews (this category already purchased and thinks I will give them a refund because it shows if I cancel too many orders,) whatever. No, I don't have to give free shipping. USPS does not give me a discount for selling 200 items a year. There is no "free shipping with FL state tax ID." That is not how anything works.

When you demand free shipping on kimono, or anything from Japan, you tell me something.

Either:
- you believe things should be free because you are special and American
- you don't understand how it works when a seller hides the shipping price in an item and says "free shipping."

When you demand super cheap kimono with top-quality listings AND free shipping, you are telling me that you do not give one single fuck about the other person and have no respect for them, their labour, their time, or their products. You actually have no respect at all. Don't try to hide that ugliness. Do something to become less shitty. You have choices. You can just practice choosing something else.

Tag Roundup

Jan. 1st, 2025 07:57 pm
danieloneiroi: Lucifer of manga Angel Sanctuary (Default)
Because apparently I need some kind of tag management system to know wtf I'm talking about.

ADHD - struggles, info posts, how it affects daily life and various issues beyond just listing symptoms
America Fuck Yeah - jfc amerikuh WHY are we like this

Communities - Dreamwidth, Discord, Youtube, Tumblr, etc.
Crafts - all types of crafting, inc. sewing, collage, drawings, etc. This is usually marking projects I'm working on/finished.

Embroidery - specific to needlework

Holidays - these are listed as specific names

Lunar Calendar - this could be Hebrew or Japanese

Rants - as it says

Sellers - could be kimono, crafts, etsy sellers, artists, whoever
Sewing - specific to sewing
Social - overlaps with communities, but these are individual accounts instead of group circles
Swap-bot - specific to Swap-bot, which I also run a community for at [community profile] swapbot_notes 

Kimono or Japan-specific
Buying Kimono - experiences with different sellers, or buying kimono in general
Expectations - This is usually about buying items
Kimono - photos of kimono, talk about history or construction, holidays and motifs for kimono, etc.

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